View Full Version : current pics of my M52 E30
Hey all,
Well, here's the latest in the ongoing saga.... after only three weeks in service, the flywheel packed it in. Also looks like the t/o bearing was almost there also.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/jreznik/P1010221.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/jreznik/P1010220.jpg
Front struts also gone. The few things I did'nt replace all shit themselves at once. That'll teach me to try and save a buck. :redface:
Should be back up and running this week. Trying to source out a OEM single mass flywheel/clutch for the M52 engine. No mas of dual mass!!
Drake
07-04-2005, 12:05 PM
Looks like quite some work. Post more pics when your done.
Branan
07-08-2005, 01:39 PM
I've been considering a similar sawp although I would prefer to go m50 to avoid the electronics swap, even better would be s50! Fiesty baby!!
Just a little update. One side of the clutch disc material was completly gone on the disc. It was metal to metal. Currently waiting for a seal for the trans. Should be in tomorrow.
I did'nt find the electronics that bad. There is just alot of it. Biggest thing was figuring out how to get a vehicle speed input to the DME. Other than that, the anti theft stuff took a little work, but you can get that programmed out now, I hear.
John
kowalski
07-12-2005, 01:06 AM
hmm that sounds like a fun little car. i was thinking of doing an LS1 conversion or supercharging the M42 or somthing like that as soon as i move out and have some space to park the car, or get a rolling shell to work on and keep my DD, let us know how it handles with the xtra weight up front. also put up a vid when shes done:)
I have'nt auto-x it, but its very responsive on the highway. At 190km/h(indicated) on a uphill lefthand sweeper coming into Vernon, I was at around 3/4 throttle, in 4th, and it took just a touch of the wheel to turn in. It was almost nervous feeling. I found out though, the front struts were pooched, so that's probably.why. I changed them also. The car was also in default mode(no vehicle speed input) with a 5500 rpm redline, so there's more to come as that problem has been addressed. Next year, S52 cams and m50 intake.
I'd love to do up a M42 with forced induction. Make a great track car. A friend of mine wants me to help him put an M42/tranny, into his old 2002. Already has the full Eibach/bilstien/ Ireland bars susp combo, so I think it would be a great modern update for him. He's talking turboing it.
I'll try to get some vid's up sometime soon. Very busy right now, have to finish car, and move to Cranbrook to start new job.
Cheers'
John
Okay, another installment. Everything is back together, and generally Im happy. I have one odd symptom with the clutch, that began when the clutch packed it in, and is still there, although not as bad.
When I depress the clutch pedal, as soon as the release bearing makes contact with the pressure plate, the pedal vibrates mildly, like ABS. This is only when initially disengaging, or engaging the clutch. No vibration when clutch is fully depressed, or partway through travel.
The intensity is dependent on engine revs. I notice nothing at idle, only when shiftng at speed. Everything in the bell housing area was replaced, flywheel, clutch, T/O bearing, pilot bearing, arm pivot. It did'nt do this before, so im a bit stumped. I do think Imgoing to need a clutch master, as I had to slightly pressurize the resvoir to get fluid to it. It would n ot draw fluid by manual pedal pumping. It did before. Don't know if that's related to the vibration problem or not.
If anyone has past experiences like this, and you fixed it, let me know. I need this car bug free.
Cheers'
John
Bimmer_Racer
07-17-2005, 01:30 PM
did you replace the pressure plate as well? also, did you make sure that all the bolts on the pressure plate were torqued to spec? if some bolts were tightened too tight while others were less, you could be out of balance and in danger of breaking off a finger on the plate (im speaking from experience. this is when i learned the hard way the usefulness of a torque wrench). the only other thing that i could think of is that the tranny isn't tightened to the motor up to the factory specs, that or if the master cylinder is ok, the slave cylinder for the transmission is starting to go...
did you replace the pressure plate as well? also, did you make sure that all the bolts on the pressure plate were torqued to spec? if some bolts were tightened too tight while others were less, you could be out of balance and in danger of breaking off a finger on the plate (im speaking from experience. this is when i learned the hard way the usefulness of a torque wrench). the only other thing that i could think of is that the tranny isn't tightened to the motor up to the factory specs, that or if the master cylinder is ok, the slave cylinder for the transmission is starting to go...
Thanks for the reply,
Everything was replaced. I did use a torque wrench on the pressure plate/flywheel/engine-trans bolts. pressure plate was tightened a turn at a time, and then torqued to spec when seated.
Best as I can tell, this is the same vibration that was there before, and everything was factory tight. So I don't know what's causing it. I don't any vibration except in the pedal.I might just buck up the cash and replace the clutch master. I think it's about to go, as I could'nt draw any fluid at all when I was trying to bleed it, and it did before.
Still does'nt explain the vibration, but at least it'll all be new. The pedal did fail to return after the clutch failed, and I had to pull it back by hand. It sorta came back after 20 or so min, but not 100%. Still feels like its engaging sooner in the return swing thn it did before.